Bogota D.C., Colombia
Bogota is Colombia’s capital and largest city nestled in the high alpine region of Cundinamarca. It is a bustling metropolis known for its cool climate, bad traffic, and economic opportunities. Many Colombians and foreigners alike have moved to Bogota to find work or to start businesses and it is no surprise that this city is the center of commerce for the country. Bogota is densely populated and the city sprawls extensively leading to relative isolation in certain areas. Many Rolos (Colombians born and raised in Bogota) have lived most of their lives in a certain zone of the city and have not had the need to travel outside of that area. As is the case with many large cities, you can often find everything you need within a few blocks radius. The city is divided into a few different zones but I will get into that in more detail later. I will also discuss what are some of the main attractions in Bogota and what are the best ways to get around the city. Lodging and food are important for all travelers and I will be sure to include my tips for finding accommodation and food as well.
Brief History
A quick search on the internet will yield many in depth results about the history of Bogota, the capital of Colombia, however you are here now and I would like to summarize it for you. Bogota was founded as the capital of New Granada around 1538 by a Spanish conquistador by the name of Gonzalo Jiminez de Quesada after his troops defeated the local Muisca tribe in the Colombian cordillera. This high plains region was rich in gold and agriculture so the Spanish obviously wanted to control it. On August 7th, 1819 Simon Bolivar and his troops won the battle of Boyaca and officially liberated “New Granada'' from Spain and the country got it’s name as we now know it, Colombia. Fast forward to modern times and you will find that Bogota is the seat of Colombia’s government as well as the hub for banking, international business, education, and art. While there are still many remnants of the colonial influence within this city, Bogota has become a modern metropolis that offers all of the first-world comforts one might expect traveling in Europe or North America.
Getting to Bogota
The best way to get to Bogota is by airplane and the El Dorado International Airport is easily navigable. For American tourists, the best and most economical option for traveling to Colombia that I have found is to fly out of Miami, Florida. If you are already within Colombia it is possible to drive to Bogota either in a private vehicle or by bus. This option will certainly cost less money than flying however due to the geography and road networks it will likely cost you a lot more time. For example, a direct flight from Bogota to Medellin takes roughly 30 minutes, however the bus ride is close to 9 hours. Keep this in mind when booking your travel plans. It is worth noting that the Colombian countryside is quite beautiful and you will be able to take in a lot more scenery by bus than by plane.
Where to Stay
Being such a large city there really is no shortage of options when it comes to lodging. You will be able to find options to fit just about any budget and preference. From what I have observed, if you are just passing through, there are good hotel options near the airport, however if you are staying for a while and plan to get out then you will likely enjoy staying in the Candelaria, Centro, Chapinero, or Zona T areas within the city. These areas are all located about 45 minutes to an hour away from the airport on the city’s eastern edge. Note that there are some areas within Centro that are in fact not very safe for tourists so be sure to check hotel and lodging reviews before booking. The absolute safest areas that I could recommend are along Carretera 11 from Calle 60 to Calle 100. This zone also contains some of the most expensive lodging, however you won’t need to be overly concerned about getting home safely at night. In this area you can find hostels, budget hotels, high end hotels, and private vacation rentals. Depending on you comfort level, expectations, and duration of stay, you can find lodging for as little as $10 per night within this zone. That will get you a private room and bathroom and building security. Of course it is important to do your own research to find what works best for you. I have had luck using Airbnb and it seems to be the most cost effective option for extended stays under 6 months.
How to Get Around
Transportation in Bogota is not particularly difficult, however you should always expect it to take longer than you anticipate to get from point A to B. There are a few reliable options for transportation within the city and I will list them in order of convenience.
Uber
Uber is technically illegal in Colombia however that does not stop anyone from using it. If you have the Uber app on your phone you can expect to be able to get a ride just about anywhere at any time of day or night. It is important to note that because it is technically illegal, if you order a non-taxi ride you will be expected to sit up front with the driver to avoid being stopped by the police. Always check the plate numbers of the vehicle before getting in and confirm the name of the driver. Getting around by Uber will cost you anywhere from COP 6.000 to 50.000 depending on the length of the ride and time of day. This is still far cheaper than any taxi or Uber in the United States and therefore is the best option for convenience and safety.
InDrive
The next best option is ordering a taxi or driver using the InDrive app. This app works similar to Uber however you put in your trip information and then have to make an offer for the cost of the ride. All rides with this app are expected to be PAID IN CASH. It can take a few tries to get the pricing bid right to get a ride but once the driver accepts the price for the trip will not change.
Transmilenio
Finally to get around within the city you can opt to use Transmilenio or the public bus system. This system is reliable and cheap and provides access to most of the city. You can coordinate which busses/routes you want to take using the Moovit application on your cellphone. To use the Transmilenio you must purchase a rechargable card at any of the transmilenio stations. It costs COP 5.000 for the card and you can load as much money on it as you would like. Each ride costs 2.900. Just be sure to have your personal belongings secure while riding the bus as pickpockets and thieves will be looking for opportunities. Also note that during certain times of the day some routes are particularly difficult to ride due to the sheer volume of passengers. If the stations are overly crowded it might serve you to take an Uber.
NEVER HAIL A CAB ON THE STREET! You may see locals doing this however it is not recommended that tourists do this. For your own safety it is best to use one of the apps mentioned above to reduce your risk of fraudulent drivers and kidnapping/theft. By using the apps above the drivers are guaranteed to be registered and your ride is tracked. If necessary you may also ask a hotel/restaurant/bar to call a taxi for you. Make sure that the trip information and price are decided before you get in the cab.
Attractions
Museums
Museo Del Oro - Located Near Candelaria in downtown Bogota this museum is packed full of artifacts pertaining to the history of the country and specifically the indigenous groups and their mastery of goldsmithing. This museum is very comprehensive in covering much of the country’s history in relation to gold and has the largest collection of gold artifacts in the country. In addition, almost every exhibit is translated in English which is very helpful to understanding the significance of all of the works. I highly recommend visiting this museum and at only 5.000 COP entrance it is well worth it.
https://www.banrepcultural.org/bogota/museo-del-oro
National Museum - This museum is located in the downtown sector of Bogota as well. It occupies the old penitentiary of Bogota and the building itself is an interesting piece of history. This museum contains some permanent exhibits as well as some rotating exhibits. It is rather large and spread out so it takes a while to get through all of the galleries. There is lots of information and stunning artwork in this museum however there are very few english translations of the content making comprehension of the exhibits somewhat challenging for those who do not speak spanish. The cost of entrance to this museum is a bit higher at 40.000 COP but still worthwhile if you love history.
https://museonacional.gov.co/el-museo/Paginas/default.aspx
Botero Museum - Located within the Candelaria district this museum is one of the must-visit gems for art lovers. The Botero museum hosts many works of the famous Colombian painter Fernando Botero. In addition to his own works, there are also many works from his private collection that were donated to the museum after his passing. Here you can view art from many world renown artist for free! Not only is admission to the Botero museum free but it is also connected to the Museum of Currency and the Museum of Art Miguel Urrutia (MAMU). This being said, it is by far the best value museum I have ever visited.
https://artsandculture.google.com/partner/museo-botero-bogota
Museum of Modern Art - Near the National Museum in downtown Bogota, the Museum of Contemporary Art hosts 3 floors of artwork from contemporary Colombian and South American artists. Spacious and modern, the gallery layout is very friendly for viewing the artwork. I will not claim to be an connoisseur of art by any means but I thoroughly enjoyed wandering the exhibits and letting the works speak to me. Entrance to this museum is 12.000 COP.
https://www.mambogota.com/en/the-museum/
Parks
One of the most notable features of Bogota for me was their dedication to include greenspace within the city. Unlike other urban metropolises I have visited, Bogota provides plenty of parks for the public to enjoy. Many have become the hot-spot for dog owners in need of a place to relieve their furry companions however there are still plenty of parks that have not been overrun by pets. Sometimes when you are constantly surrounded by skyscrapers and traffic a park is exactly what you need to unwind. Here are a few of my favorite parks that I visited while in Bogota.
Parque Nacional - Located in the center of Bogota and right next to the Observatory and MAMBO, Parque Nacional is one of the larger parks in Bogota and the largest in Centro. While visiting during my trip I encountered a large encampment within the park. After asking around and doing a little research I discovered that the encampment within the park belonged to the Embara indigenous group who has been occupying this area to varying levels since 2022. They initially began occupying the park in protest against the government of Colombia and to raise awareness about their struggle to retain their ancestral lands. From the Choco and Risaralda regions of Colombia, this group has been facing serious displacement from corporate interests forcing them off their land to exploit the natural resources in their region. While this park is not particularly safe or pleasant to visit at this time, it serves as a reminder of the need to support indigenous efforts in the preservation of ancestral lands.
Parque Simon Bolivar - This is the largest public park in Bogota and is beautifully laid out. Enjoy a stroll around the lake and watch a game of soccer. It is probably best to go with a friend or stay alert as the park is so large that people have reported being mugged within its boundaries.
Parque Virrey - This is a nice park on the Eastern side of Bogota near Calle 87 and Carretera 15. It is in a much nicer neighborhood within the city and therefore is much safer to visit. It is often full of people exercising, picnicking, walking their dogs, and partaking in other extracurricular activities. It is beautifully landscaped and is a nice spot to sit for a while and read a book or go for a jog.
Parque 93 - The most impressive time of year to visit this park is in December around Christmas time. Most of the year it is a nicely maintained part that is calm and enjoyable to sit in. Come the holidays it transforms into a “winter wonderland” completely lit up with holiday themed lights, shopping booths, cafes and a stage with live music.
Other Destinations
Being such a large city, Bogota has much to offer in the form of points of interest. During my trip here I was able to do a decent amount but there were some things that certainly stood out as being worth a visit.
Monserrate - Possibly one of the most popular tourist destinations in the city, Monserrate is a beautiful cathedral located on top of the hills to the east of Bogota. Accessible by stairs, tram, or funicular it is absolutely worth a visit if you are in town. The hike is significant so be prepared, it is highly recommended that you start early in the day if this is how you want to get there. If you wish to ride either the cable car or tram, it is not too expensive and is quite quick. However, if you arrive close to sunset it is often very crowded and you will have to wait in line to buy your ticket and ride up. Once at the top you will get a spectacular view of the city especially if it is not too cloudy. There are also many restaurants and gift shops at the top so be assured you can pass some time atop the hill in comfort.
Plazoleta Chorro Quevedo - This fountain plaza is a tourist hub in the heart of Candelaria. Nearby you can find dining, shopping and street vendors. There are often storytelling sessions in the plaza as well and all are welcome to come listen. This is a popular and vibrant destination in Bogota.
Mercado Pulgar de Usaquen - On Sundays you can find in Usaquen a flea market that offers many artisanal goods that are locally made. It is located along some of the beautiful and quaint streets of the Usaquen neighborhood and offers a variety of crafts, foods, and clothing that can not be found in the typical gift shops around Colombia. Visiting this market is a great way to spend a Sunday afternoon and you can bet on finding some unique and interesting gifts.
La Candelaria - This is the historic center of Bogota and definitely worth visiting. In this district you have easy access to restaurants, museums, hotels, beautiful colonial architecture, and much more. If you are interested in the history of Bogota or simply enjoy staying in older neighborhoods with classic architecture then this is the zone for you.
Mercado de Paloquemao - A definite must visit for anyone interested in food or agriculture. This market is located a bit further south in the neighborhood of Paloquemao and is one of the largest indoor markets in Bogota. It offers a vibrant sea of vendors selling every national food product imaginable. Tropical fruits to meat and fish and even floral arrangements can be found in this maze of commerce. Immerse your senses in the colors, sounds and scents of this market and don’t forget to stop for lunch at one of the various cafes within.
Dining
Mercado de Perserverancia - This market located in the Santa Fe district of Bogota is very close to the National Museum. At this market you will find a handful of produce and meat vendors but the primary draw is the food court area. This is one of the most famous places in Bogota to try a variety of local specialties. Many claim that the Ajiaco found at this market is the best in Bogota. I have yet to make an Ajiaco pilgrimage and try as many throughout the city as I can, so, I cannot confirm. It is, however, very delicious. If Ajiaco is not what you are craving do not worry, there are about 15 different restaurants serving up a wide variety of delicacies for reasonable prices.
85 - As in Calle 85 is the upscale restaurant and nightlife center of Bogota. In this area you will find any kind of food you are craving and many late night options. From the dining courts in Centro comercial Andino and Centro comercial Atlantis, the famous Andre Carne de Res, and all the independent nightclubs and restaurants inbetween, this zone of the city is a hub for restaurants and nightlife. Just beware that it will be CROWDED especially on the weekend and the prices will be above average. It is a classy area after all.
93 - Similar to 85 but slightly smaller and a few blocks to the north. You will find a variety of bars and restaurants surrounding Parque 93 serving up local and foreign dishes alike. There are quite a few options concentrated in this area. One option that stood out to me was the Apache Rooftop Bar located on top of the Click Clack Hotel. It was a very nice, upscale spot to grab a cocktail and enjoy the night time view of the city.
Candelaria - Old town downtown is bound to get down. Plenty of restaurant options reside in this section of town. If you want street food take a stroll down Carretera 7 and grab a Perro Caliente or Pinchos. If you want something a little higher end, fret not. There are a multitude of restaurants and bars in the city’s historic center. An honorable mention for lunch in this district would be Casa Mama Luz. This restaurant is humble but excellent and serves up authentic Cundinaboyacense specialties. Just beware, they are only open from 12-4 and often sell out of their most popular dishes around 2pm. You can thank me later.
Dona Elvira - This is a classic Bogota eating establishment and my favorite restaurant in the city so far. Since it is my favorite I feel it deserves a special shout out in this article. This restaurant only serves lunch but you will be glad you made the trip. Often there is a line to be seated in spite of Dona Elvira’s ample seating. If possible I recommend getting seated on the back patio as the atmosphere is lovely. The menu is classic Cundinaboyacense food and has plenty of options to choose from. Beware that the portions are VERY generous and you may have a hard time finishing. That being said, every time I go I have a difficult time not ordering a starter, main, and dessert because they are all so good!
No matter what your reason for visiting Bogota, above all, have a great time! I hope this article has proven insightful and can help you plan your next visit to the Capital of Colombia. Bien Viaje!
