Lima, Peru
It is hard to know where to begin with this one. Maybe the best thing I can think to say is that I felt welcome. From my understanding this is often the opposite experience for many foreigners traveling to Lima, so for this I am thankful. The inspiration for the trip began one cold winter morning as I sat at my desk in Salt Lake, surfing the internet and playing video games. I received a DM from my friend Eduardo asking me when I was going to come visit him in Lima.
Eduardo and I first met when I was working as the head chef of Mid Mountain Lodge at the Park City ski resort. He had come to Park City on a J1 Visa to work for the winter season at the ski resort and ended up as one of my employees. Over the course of that season we got to know each other and developed a friendship. When I received his message that day, I looked out the window to my cold surroundings and felt the pang for a change of scenery. At that moment I decided it was time I take a trip!
I began my planning process and booked travel arrangements a few months away, in July. Since Peru is in the southern hemisphere it would be winter there when I arrived but winter in Lima is quite different that winter in Utah! For starters, Lima is a coastal desert and much closer to the equator. This means that the temperature there doesn’t fluctuate much throughout the year. Another factor that makes Lima a rather appealing winter destination is the lack of snow. In fact, Lima hardly gets any precipitation at all! For some winter with no snow is a deal breaker, and for others a blessing. I had my fill of snow this year since Utah got absolutely pummeled this last winter. I was delighted to be able to rock shorts and a t-shirt almost every single day I would be in Lima.
When I arrived I got in touch with Eduardo, who was waiting for me at the airport. We caught a cab from the airport to his family’s house in Santiago de Surco, one of the southern districts of Lima. This is where I would be staying during my time in Lima. I was truly astounded by the hospitality of Eduardo and his family and their willingness to accept me into their home. This was a quality I feel is not so common in the US and it really made all the difference for my experience.
Being a chef I was of course very excited to be there as I had heard many good things about the food! I can start off by saying that there are a plethora of dishes unique to Lima and Peru in general however, much like in the US, some you can find all over and in abundance, and others you must go searching for. Prior to traveling to Peru I have of course heard of and tried dishes such as ceviche and lomo saltado, but not surprisingly, the quality of the dishes once I was there were so much better!
One of the biggest surprises for me was to see a great number of burger restaurants. While I only ate at a couple, the hamburger is a popular food in Lima. There are many independent burger joints around the city, often open quite late, and serving up hot beef (most of the time) with a multitude of options for toppings. It seemed that Limenos prefer a burger loaded with delicious extras and plenty of rocoto for dipping their fries. The burgers I tried were delicious and, like most of the food I tried in Lima, a really good value for what I paid.
Another very popular dish that I encountered all over the city was Pollo a la Brasa. This is an extremely popular dish in Lima and there are many restaurants dedicated to serving up solely Pollo a la Brasa. For those not familiar, the best comparison is rotisserie chicken. Unlike the roasted birds commonly found at the supermarket in the US, Peruvians have figured out the perfect combination of spices to marinate the chickens with before roasting them in wood fired ovens. I think these two steps are what really set Pollo a la Brasa apart from rotisserie chicken in the US because of the smokey flavor and juiciness of the meat. This dish is served with papas fritas (french fries) and a few different dipping sauces that can vary by restaurant however usually include rocoto, mayonesa, salsa verde, and ketchup.
There is a lot of Chinese influence on the food in Lima and one of the most apparent dishes that exemplify this fusion is Arroz Chifa. Arroz Chifa is fried rice and is offered with a variety of ingredients just as in your favorite Chinese restaurant in the US. It is a common side dish to a wide variety of foods and is also often eaten as a main dish too. It is found on many menus around the city and is a good option for any American travelers missing a taste of home!
One of my favorite dishes that I found in many places in Lima is Broaster. This dish is a fried chicken cutlet served with papas fritas. As an American I love fried chicken, and while I know many cultures have some version of this dish, to me, the Peruvian version stands out. When it comes to poultry I will die on the hill of dark meat! One thing about fried chicken in the US is typically one of three options: drumsticks, wings, or breast tenders. While the options are there, I have one bone to pick: the bones in the dark meat! Broaster is most commonly a boneless thigh cutlet that has been tenderized, breaded, and fried. To me that is the pinnacle of fried chicken preparation. On top of this, the standard rocoto and mayonesa make for fantastic pairings with fried chicken.
Overall my trip to Lima was incredible and one to remember for a lifetime! I really hope that I can return soon and I definitely urge the curious to see for yourselves what Lima has to offer!